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Black Models vs. The ENTIRE fashion industry
It's an open secret in the fashion industry: black models rarely get jobs on catwalks, in magazines and on billboards. According to executives, they do not inspire women to spend money.
Apart from Naomi Campbell in one Louis Vuitton advertisement this season, it would be difficult to find a single black model in a prominent position in a magazine. Carole White of the Premier Model Agency says she has received casting briefs requesting "no ethnics" and adds: "According to magazines, black models don't sell."
The leading British photographer Nick Knight says: "The fashion industry and the advertising industry are steeped in racism. You just have to look around at the number of black girls you see in ads – virtually nil. Among the main fashion brands, they are completely under-represented. It's shocking and atrocious."
Mr Knight blames business people at the top of the industry. A common attitude among them, he says, is that black models are "not aspirational" or "don't sell in Asia". He goes on: "I have tried to redress the balance. It is enormously important to use black models and models of different ethnic backgrounds."
Now a counterattack to the racism of the fashion industry is coming from an unlikely source: Vogue Italia. The July issue of the fearsomely cutting-edge quarterly will feature black models almost exclusively, shot by the photographer Steven Meisel.
Franca Sozzani, editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia, told The Independent on Sunday: "We are using a lot of black models, like Iman, not only the models of today – a lot of different girls." Asked why she had decided to do this, she said: "Because nobody is using black girls. I see so many beautiful girls and they were complaining that they are not used enough."
Ms Sozzani admitted the issue could yet prove to be unpopular among some in Italy, where the xenophobic Northern League is part of the new coalition led by Silvio Berlusconi: "Maybe in our country it is not the best idea. But I don't care. I think it is not my problem if they don't like it – it's their problem."
Sarah Doukas, managing director of model agency Storm, says: "There has been frustration over the years from a lot of ethnic models, stylists and editors who have felt that they were not working as much as some of their Caucasian counterparts."
But she added: "There has been a shift recently: supportive media coverage has had an impact on the fashion industry."
Nick Knight welcomes the prospect of Vogue Italia's all-black edition but adds a note of caution: "I hope all the advertising goes in that issue."
...What are your thoughts?
*Zy
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Johnny on -
I recently was asked to do a beauty story for ON MAKEUP Magazine. The magazine gave me complete creative freedom to do what ever i wanted. I decided to use a black model (Samira) because most magazines dont use black models for beauty stories and i wanted the darkest skin i could find. The Editor loved it . I also made the choice to work with her hair in its natrual state because i thought it looked beautiful.
I was very lucky to be able to work on this All Black Italia Vouge issue . I did the make up for Chanel Iman and one of my all time favorite models Karen Alexander. It was truly a amazing day to work with 2 of the most beautiful women in the world. They make my job so easy:)
Here are a few pictures from the beauty story from ON MAKEUP MAGAZINE. enjoy
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Permalink Reply by Zyaira on -
I just adore theses photo's!! Thank you so much for you professional insight!
*Zy
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Permalink Reply by CHIP on -
As a model i can honestly say i hate the way the industry is in many ways , it shows racism,hypocrisy, and envy... to not only blacks but asian, and exotic models , you are a target of racism sooner or later by clients if you are not white and boring.
Each year clients send a list of what they want to agencies ,,ive seen it, and as the years progress the look becomes more white and clone like, and ugh!* generic*.
people forget this is a business,and right now the fashion biz is following the trend in all other business,,white ,normal and nothing innovative.And its true the heads want nothing different usually.Dont let there hype of an all black featured vogue make you think things are changing , thats probably the heads way to keep people from complaining and demanding change ,,,, there are supporters for black models im sure with this project ,,but bottom line the heads want what ive said in the long run wether the project proceeds or not ,,One of my first agencies i worked with was an all black agency ,,,i was the only italian american on a team of all black men and women, i think more agencies should cater exclusive to black men and women.The good thing is if you are dark skined and have an agent,,,runway shows will want you ,,designers love pure black features with men and women ,,, however if your lightskinned you will have more luck with commercial print usually ,,becouse many in the fashion industry (rolls eyes) think that light skin appeals to the masses ..Best wishes to everyone and NEVER GIVE UP!
ps. i hope P Diddy uses his money smart to continue to break grounds in fashion and will not sell out to there foolishness.
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Permalink Reply by Simone on -
I agree with most of the comments here and I also think that its important to note that even though fashion is an art form, its first and foremost a business that directly corresponds with the needs and views of its clients. It also reflects ideals that are prevalent in society. So if racism exists in our everyday lives, it will exist in fashion. Racism is prevalent and most likely isn't going away any time soon. Fashion (because its an art form) does have the ability to tell people what they want, what can be considered beautiful and fashion forward but to me it seems that they're "afraid" (very reluctant) to take that chance by including more ethnically diverse models because its a business. I'm not sure what it'll take to change this but I do think the upcoming Vogue Italia featuring African American (British, Canadian etc.) is a step in the right direction. This discussion also relates to issues of body images (a.k.a. why aren't there more high fashion "plus sized" models?).
P.S. Does anyone else notice that there's usually only one (maybe two) top black model at a time? Right now would be Chanel Iman ...
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Permalink Reply by Marianna on -
I haven't model yet to see and experience if this is really a truth however, from my own professional experience in the buisness world (depending where you live -which state) discrimination is present. Only difference is that it is not expressed in words but other ways hidden to camuflage the reality. Moreover, it is not only against black people but other races as well. However, legally it is forbidden to express this out in the open comparing to the years back. In the same time it depends on individual preference that makes that discriminational comments or difference between people race rather then all.
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Permalink Reply by DeVon Drakkar Lane Simmons on -
This is crazy and it will change one day. I will see to it. Black models just have to stick together and work hard so they will not turn us away and they would have no choice but to use us.
Thank You
DeVon Drakkar Lane Simmons
DDLS
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Permalink Reply by Hunter Leeland on -
I am a scout with a local agency in the Los Angeles area and I need to let you know that some product lines are not designed for people of color so it gets difficult as a scout/manager to send your clients on jobs with certain designers. What I have been noticing lately is that during the fitting process more and more people of color are being utilized so that clothing lines are more versatile and don't eliminate a massive group of people because of the cut. Sadly enough Kimora always looks for Asian women and Roca Wear normally contracts models who are African American so it really depends on the designer and what audience they're looking to target. It also pays to have an agency that will fight for you to get ANY jobs. Just food for thought.
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Permalink Reply by Marianna on
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Then why is it on the Contract or policy of the modeling agencies written disclamaer that everyone is encouraged to apply regardless of race, religion or origin but yet, they don't hire black models -isn't this big time discrimination. I THINK IT IS!!!!
Anyway, like DeVon said, sticking together makes us more powerfull!!!!
Thanks Mia.
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Permalink Reply by CHIP on
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Because most agencys are scam artist,,and even many model searches have top agents come (because they pay them to show up) but most searches arent designed to find new models ,,just to make money,,thus no one is usually signed with a top agency when at the search ....and most agencys that say there looking for all types arent. they know exactly what there looking for.
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Permalink Reply by Diamond_glow on -
Well one thing is 4 SURE TYRA BANKS IS DOING THE DA*M THANG!!!!
Becuause of her I feel that there is some progress!! She has really turned another page for us...
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Permalink Reply by Marianna on
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Hey I don't care I am white but "Europien decent" and my family is mixed with black people as well as others including my brother in law - love him like my brother.
But it's the rednecks that don't get that part -maybe they should start traveling and building thier own confidence in order to love others. They say you have to love your self..... in order to love others. No offense but in Europe people are treated better regardless of the race even though they have less laws.... One day the earth in the future there will be have black people and asians as a majority of race....yeah!
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